Our trip to Kyushu with kids (ours were 1.5yo and 3.5yo at the time of travel) marked our 1.5yo daughter’s sixth set of flights. Needless to say, the kids are pretty adaptable and great at travel by now. We’ve been absolutely privileged to be able to travel this much in this season of life. A confluence of factors – our day jobs, the kids’ ages, accumulation of points over the pandemic years – meant seven international family trips in less than two years. (Want some tips? Check out – Five tips to make travel with kids easier)
This post is all about the week that we spent in Kyushu, exploring the natural beauty this island has to offer.
- Why Kyushu with kids?
- Blueberry Picking at Yamadon Fruit Farm
- Staying at Kyukamura Minami-Aso
- Visiting Takachiho Gorge
- Taking the Takachiho Amaterasu Railway
- Exploring Mount Aso, the Nakadake Crater and Kusasenrigahama
- Climbing down the Nabegataki Falls
- Viewing the Kuju Mountains from the Tadewara Wetlands at the Chojabaru Visitor Center
- Experiencing farm life at Yufu Child Farm
- Jostling with other tourists in Yufuin
- Returning to Fukuoka
- What we didn’t do
Why Kyushu with kids?
Ms 1 will soon turn two years old, and we were keen to use our miles for one last business class redemption before she needs a full ticket and it becomes much harder for us to do so. We also really wanted to visit Japan, but the usual suspects of Tokyo and Osaka are in such high demand that it’s virtually impossible to land redemption tickets unless you book a whole year ahead.
A friend had recently done a Kyushu trip with kids, and highly recommended it to us. We found redemption availability on Singapore Airlines (for saver tickets, no less!) and quickly jumped at the opportunity.
After obtaining the tickets, we set to work figuring out what we’d do there. We knew we wanted to do a road trip, and experience much of the natural beauty of the place. Research showed us that Kyushu is huge and it would take a lot of time to cover the island fully. We also found out that Kyushu is generally cheaper and less crowded than the usual tourist cities of Japan. Hooray!
Blueberry Picking at Yamadon Fruit Farm
After a red-eye flight we arrived in Fukuoka early in the morning. We had booked a rental car from Toyota Rent-a-car, and found our way to their booth just outside the international arrivals area. Following the instructions at the booth, we used the provided phone to call the rental company, then made our way to the pick-up point where a shuttle was sent to pick us up.
The shuttle ride was less than five minutes long, and after a bit of paperwork we got into the car and began our road trip! We were headed toward our ryokan in Minami-Aso, but since check-in would only be possible in the afternoon, we broke up the journey by first visiting a farm for some fruit picking.
We arrived at a very quiet Yamadon Fruit Farm, and found a Japanese handwritten sign that Google translate told us meant that the farmer was out on the field, and we should call the number provided to let him know we were here for fruit picking. The person who picked up the phone didn’t understand any English, but somehow we managed to communicate that we were at the farm itself and he showed up a few minutes later.
For a fee of ¥1,000 per adult (kids under 4 were free), we could pluck and eat as many blueberries as we wanted. Packing the fruit home in boxes was separately chargeable by weight. We chose to just eat and not bring any along with us, as we’d be staying at the ryokan with buffet dinner and breakfast provided.
With tummies full of berries, we stopped at a 7-11 for a quick “lunch”, before the long drive to our accommodation at Kyukamura Minami-Aso.
Staying at Kyukamura Minami-Aso
Stepping into Kyukamura Minami-Aso felt like stepping back in time. With its linoleum floors and gypsum ceiling tiles, it was reminiscent of buildings in the 90s when we were growing up. The guests were mostly locals, and we felt very much at home in the quaint albeit dated place.
It is a resort catered to families, and they have a small play area at the lobby including some toy cars and a ball pit. But better than this, they have toys and play equipment for loan and use on their expansive premises. Balance bikes, tricycles, pogo sticks, rackets and balls of all shapes and sizes, frisbees, water guns and more. Guests are free to borrow these and use them on the grounds, which include a large grassy field next to the main building. Apart from outdoor equipment, they also loan toys and games for indoor use. We borrowed a drawing board and a simple game the kids could play. For older ones, they have playing cards, Uno, Twister, and more. All for free!
Breakfast and dinner are included in the price, and are served buffet style in the restaurant. They have high chairs and special cutlery and trays to cater to children, even child sized chopsticks. With the wide range and high quality of food on offer, we were always spoiled for choice and stuffed ourselves silly each meal we had there.
We took a Japanese style family room, which meant tatami flooring and sleeping on futons. They also offer Western style rooms. In Japan culture, kids sleep on the floor with their parents and it’s not common to find hotels that provide western baby cots outside the main cities and large hotel chains that cater to western tourists. We brought our own travel cot for Ms 1, as she sleeps better in a familiar space. Mr 3 is more adaptable now and was able to sleep on whatever bedding was provided (in this case, a futon on the floor).
One of the best parts about staying in a ryokan was being able to take turns to enjoy the onsen after the kids went to bed at night. The facilities at Kyukamura exceeded our expectations, and we were even able to do laundry at the laundry room which had coin-operated washing machines (which automatically dispensed detergent) and tumble dryers.
Visiting Takachiho Gorge
Kyukamura Minami-Aso is located in the Kumamoto prefecture, and it offered a good base from which we could explore nearby sights including the Takachiho Gorge in the Miyazaki prefecture.
The Takachiho Gorge is as magical as the photos show. The layers of volcanic rock, blue-green waters, waterfalls and greenery make for a magical experience. There’s also the option to take a boat through the gorge, paddling it on your own. Each boat can accommodate three adults, or four persons if at least one of the passengers is a child under six. This meant we would have been able to fit into one boat as a family. However, thinking back to our recent boat ride in Ninh Binh, Vietnam, where Ms 1 kept trying to jump overboard to “swim”, we decided it would be much less stressful to view the gorge from above instead.
There is a walking trail along the gorge, however, a typhoon in 2022 destroyed much of the trail, and it is now under repair.
Taking the Takachiho Amaterasu Railway
A short distance away from the gorge is the Takachiho Amaterasu Railway. Our kids love trains, and when we saw that our friends had enjoyed their time at this railway we decided to pay it a visit as well. The train ride is about 40 minutes long, and it’s not a loop. The train goes out through two tunnels and offers sweeping views of the area, and finally stops in the middle of a large bridge. It was beautifully lush and green in Summer, and one can only imagine how amazing the colours would be as the leaves turn in Autumn! After some time on the bridge, the train will go back the same way it came, with the back becoming the front and vice versa. It was our first time in an open top train, and it didn’t feel as scary as it sounds!
Exploring Mount Aso, the Nakadake Crater and Kusasenrigahama
On a separate day, we spent most of our day exploring the Mount Aso area. Mount Aso is an active volcano with several peaks. We visited the Nakadake Crater, which is accessible by car, bus or on foot, except on days where it is closed due to volcanic activity.
The drive up to the crater was filled with lush green scenery, until it was not. The difference in scenery approaching the crater was stark. Greens were traded for browns and greys, and the atmosphere was eerily beautiful. There’s a rather easy hike from the bus terminal up to the crater, and visitors can chose to walk one way and take the bus the other. But for a young family like us, driving our own vehicle all the way up was certainly the best option. We paid a park entry fee for our vehicle, and were allowed to drive all the way up to the carpark at the crater.
The weather on the mountain is cooler, so the heat of the summer sun didn’t feel as harsh on our skin. We took in the other-worldly views of the craters and were reminded of the power of nature by all the warning signs and bunkers in place in case of emergencies.
A little way down from the crater, the landscape completely changes at Kusasenrigahama. A lush plateau with great views and hiking paths, this was the perfect lunch stop. There’s a large car park and a visitor center here too, where we were able to read more about the landscape, geology and even wildlife of the region. There are a few restaurants and cafes where you can dine with views of the mountains, and a lovely little coffee shop.
We spent some time exploring the plateau. There are marked hiking trails, but we didn’t take any of these and took our time to explore a small area instead. There are also horse rides available.
Climbing down the Nabegataki Falls
The Nabegataki Falls are a wide waterfall that can be reached easily on foot. There is a small entrance fee, and while on the website it appears that you need to make an advance reservation online (which we did), when we arrived we saw that it was possible to purchase tickets at the booth at the entrance.
While the area surrounding Nabegataki Falls felt rather quiet and devoid of people, when we arrived at the carpark of the falls itself, it was very full of people. Please dress appropriately if you’re visiting a waterfall! We saw so many inappropriately dressed visitors gingerly clambering over the slippery rock. It is a waterfall after all, and there are steps, rocks, and water to be traversed. I managed fine with Ms 1 in a baby carrier, wearing my trusty Chaco sandals.
The Nabegataki Falls are special in that it’s possible to walk behind the falls, as the water created a little cave under the rock over time. It’s like the one at Bird Paradise in Singapore, except that this one is completely natural!
Viewing the Kuju Mountains from the Tadewara Wetlands at the Chojabaru Visitor Center
We love the mountains, and while we’re not ready to take long mountain treks with the kids yet, we still find ways to get close! Another mountain range within an hour’s drive of Kyukamura Minami-Aso is the Kuju mountains.
We drove to the Chojabaru Visitor Center, which is the start point for some hiking trails, as well as for the boardwalk across the Tadewara Wetlands. This is an easy, wheel-chair accessible boardwalk, and one of the very few places on our trip that a stroller would’ve been easy to manoeuvre.
The Chojabaru Visitor Center had plenty of information about the area, some of which was available in English. There were also small activities for kids to participate in, such as collecting stamps and crayon rubbing. We saw strollers and wheelchairs available for loan and use on the boardwalk.
The Tadewara Wetlands boardwalk itself was a scenic and easy walk. We met an elderly man who set himself up on one of the benches with a steaming hot cup of tea and a breakfast sandwich. How idyllic!
Experiencing farm life at Yufu Child Farm
One of the highlights of our trip was our stay at Yufu Child Farm. There’s so much to share, that I’ve written a separate post about it here: Family friendly Farm Stay in the Japan Countryside.
Jostling with other tourists in Yufuin
After our farm stay, we spent half a day in Yufuin before returning to Fukuoka. Yufuin is an onsen town that has done very well for itself, attracting many tourists to its quirky and quaint shopping areas. It was more crowded than any of the other places we visited (granted, it was much smaller a space since it was on man-made streets and shops). We’re not too big on shopping and the typical touristy activities (they had a place you could view owls), so it was more of window shopping and snacking on local foods for us. Still, it was an enjoyable time and if you’re looking to pick up souvenirs, this is definitely a place for that.
Returning to Fukuoka
We didn’t spend much time in Fukuoka city itself, so there’s little I can say about it. It was much more hectic than the countryside, but also felt more laid back than Tokyo. In the summer heat, however, moving around was not particularly pleasant. We returned our rental car and chose to explore the city area on foot instead, given the difficulties with driving and parking in the city. Even though the paths were not the smoothest, it was possible to use our stroller and we spent most of our time in the city in the comfort of air-conditioned malls. We hunted down favourite foods and stocked up on Japanese supplies for our home!
After a full but relaxing seven days in Kyushu, it was time to return home. The Fukuoka Airport is a mere 15 to 20 minutes away from the city, and we managed to flag down a taxi on the main road near to our accommodation (we tried to use Uber to call a cab but couldn’t get it to work) within five minutes.
What we didn’t do
With only one week on the island, there were plenty of things we did not have the time to do. These days, with so much information out there, it’s easy to get overwhelmed with options. The last thing we wanted was an over-stuffed itinerary.
Since we travel with kids, we aim for one main activity per day, and have a few back-pocket items to turn to if we have extra time or need to pivot for whatever reason. We want to be able to enjoy each place fully, and not just turn up for a few photos and leave. To us, travel isn’t about the photo moments, it’s about the in-between ones. Moments like watching the river water wash over the riverbed, taking in the smells of the volcanic area, or chasing dragonflies through the grassy plains. We are less concerned with the quantity of things we see and do, but more with the quality of time we spend there.
Theme parks and museums in Fukuoka. Since our priority was spending time in nature, man-made theme parks and museums were naturally not high on our list of things to do. Furthermore, the weather in August is hot and wet, making visits to parks rather uncomfortable. That said, we’ve heard good things about the child-friendly activities available in Fukuoka and its immediate surroundings.
Travelling further East to Beppu. The main attraction of Beppu are the “hells” or hot springs that reach over 100 degrees celsius. In the sweltering heat of Japan’s summer, the thought of going to view boiling water was not particularly attractive.
Travelling further West to Nagasaki. Nagasaki is another main city in Kyushu that tourists visit, particularly for its history of having suffered from a nuclear attack in World War II. It’s definitely a place we hope to visit someday, when the kids are older.
Travelling further South. This would simply have taken too much time. Seven days isn’t particularly long and we didn’t want to spend so much of it stuck on the roads.
If we find ourselves back in Kyushu again, we’d definitely look into exploring some of these areas!
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Overall, Kyushu was a great family destination for us. If you’re looking for a slow, nature-filled holiday with all the perks of Japan (great food, amazing combinis, onsens, general safety), then do consider Kyushu with kids!
